What are Fermented Essences and What are Their Benefits?

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I've been using fermented essences for quite a while now but I never really looked up what they're about. The Missha First Treatment Essence is my holy grail essence and since there are SO MANY fermented skincare items on the market today, I wanted to learn what they're all about.

What is fermentation?

Fermentation is a process in which bacteria converts carbohydrates (like starches or sugars) into alcohol or acid.

Much like fermented foods such as beer, wine, kimchi, or yogurt encourage healthy digestion when eaten, fermented skincare also has components that promote skin health.

Each fermented skincare has a main ingredient that is fermented and responsible for the intended result of that particular skincare item. The Innisfree Firming Energy Essence, for example, is made with fermented soybeans while Missha First Treatment Essence is made with fermented yeast derived from Himalayan barley.

What are the skincare benefits of fermentation?

When skincare ingredients are fermented, there are typically three benefits.

The first benefit is that the fermentation process makes it less likely that the product will irritate the skin. Fermentation neutralizes harmful skin irritants, such as heavy metals or even pesticides, and makes the product safer for the skin.

Second, fermentation helps product absorb much easier into the skin. The molecule size of some skincare ingredients may be too large to be absorbed by the skin efficiently. However, through the fermentation process, molecules are broken down and thereby easier for the skin to absorb and utilize.

Lastly, fermented skincare products are nutrient dense. Through the fermentation process, antioxidants and amino acids are created. These helpful ingredients may not be present in the raw ingredients. Without fermentation, these would not be available.

Are there any studies on fermented skincare?

There are, unfortunately, not an abundance of studies to prove the efficacy of using fermented ingredients on the skin so definitely take all the hype with a grain of salt. The studies that DO exist, however, are encouraging. The Journal of Medicinal Food found in 2012 that fermented red ginseng had increased anti-wrinkle and anti-aging efficacy.

Additionally, fermenting skincare ingredients means that the product will have a longer shelf life and therefore reduce the need for harmful cosmetic preservatives such as parabens.

While the SKII Treatment Essence is still the standard, for something a bit more cost effective, I love the Missha Time Revolution The First Essence.

It looks like THEORETICALLY (if the fermentation process works out how it's theorized to work), there can be a lot of benefits to fermented skincare. The anecdotes I've heard from friends about how fermented essences and skincare has done wonders for their own skin adds additional hype to the trend. I would love to see more concrete studies proving their efficacy, however. Facts forever! Until we get more peer reviewed studies, however, it looks like we'll all have to perform our own experiments as we go forth and conquer!